FYI: I belong to a winos and foodies group.
The wino's and foodies group is having an Argentina party. Some wines to consider for the upcoming party.
Dolce Vita
Argentina is making some
interesting wines at the moment. Its main marketing push has been Malbec, a
grape whose home is the southwest of France, where it’s the main grape in Cahors
and a bit-part player in many Bordeaux blends. Malbec doesn’t have the
blackcurranty fruitiness of Cabernet; rather it is a bit darker, and a little
more savoury, with spice and earth undertones. It has less of a tendency to go
to lushness when grown in warm climates, which is probably a good thing.
Mendoza is the dominant wine region. Perched on the side of the
Andes, this is a region that receives very little rainfall, and were it not for
the ready supply of Andes meltwater, viticulture wouldn’t be possible here.
Another important factor is altitude: the vineyards here are high up, and with
the highest vineyards in the region the extra UV light that the grapes receives
causes the grapes to develop thicker skins, with more tannins (and softer
tannins, too), as well as more colour. The cooling effect of altitude means that
the grapes preserve acidity even when they are allowed to hang for quite a while
before harvest.
But it would be wrong to dismiss Argentina’s other wine regions. Two
in particular are worth mentioning. First, Salta. Up in the hot north, these are
the world’s highest commercial vineyards: were it not for the effect of
altitude, it would be too hot for quality viticulture here. Second, Patagonia.
Travelling far south, this is a cooler, windier, flatter region that’s beginning
to turn out some really nice wines.
This tasting covered 45 different Malbecs, which sounds like a lot,
but is only a quick sampling of a much broader offering. Some important wines
are missing – Catena, Achaval Ferrer and Colomé, to name but three – and so this
can’t be seen as a true ranking of Argentina’s best.
In terms of quality, I though this was quite high across the board.
Remember, this is a mixture of commercial wines and then some high-end ones.
Stylistically, I think Argentina would do well to go down the road of freshness,
definition and structure, rather than super-ripeness and new oak flavours. I
would also add that while Argentinean Malbec is great, it would be a shame for
this country to become a one-trick pony: other grape varieties shouldn’t be
neglected in a headlong rush to plant Malbec.
94Chacayes Malbec 2003 Tunuyán, MendozaPure, sweet fruit on
the nose, which is smooth with a spicy underlay. The palate is concentrated with
good acidity and nice spicy structure. A lovely wine that is quite refined and
full. 94/100
93
O Fournier Alpha Crux Malbec 2003 La Consulta, MendozaDense, sweet, forward spicy nose shows lovely pure dark fruits. The palate is bold and full with good density and nice dark spicy fruit. Tannic, too. 93/100
O Fournier Alpha Crux Malbec 2003 La Consulta, MendozaDense, sweet, forward spicy nose shows lovely pure dark fruits. The palate is bold and full with good density and nice dark spicy fruit. Tannic, too. 93/100
Familia Schroeder Saurus Patagonia Select Malbec 2004 Neuqén,
PatagoniaAmazingly deep, vivid colour. Lovely savoury, spicy nose of
pure fruit. Vivid like a tank sample. The palate is intense, vivid and spicy
with a savoury twist. A tannic beast. 93/100
Dominio del Plata Susana Balbo Malbec 2005 Tunuyan,
MendozaDeep coloured. Beautifully aromatic nose showing spice, violet,
sweet fruit. The palate is bold and rich but quite elegant with good acid. A
striking wine that’s beautifully made. 93/100
92
Fincas Patagonicas Zolo Reserve Malbec 2004 MendozaPerfumed, fresh and bold with nice fruit freshness and good acidity. A lovely structured wine. 92/100
Fincas Patagonicas Zolo Reserve Malbec 2004 MendozaPerfumed, fresh and bold with nice fruit freshness and good acidity. A lovely structured wine. 92/100
Finca Sophenia Synthesis Malbec 2005 Tupungato,
MendozaVery open, sweet, perfumed nose is smooth and lush. The palate is
open and rounded with sweet pure fruit. An elegant style. 92/100
Familia Cassone Obra Prima Malbec 2003 MendozaLovely vivid
savoury nose with pure fruit. Quite aromatic. Nice structure and weight on the
palate which is vivid and dense with amazing fruit quality. 92/100
91 Fabre Montmayou Malbec Gran Reserva 2005 Luján de Cuyo,
MendozaDeep coloured. Smooth, pure, spicy nose leads to a dense palate
with nice intensity and delicious spicy structure. A lovely wine. 91/100
Luigi Bosca Malbec 2004 Luján de Cuyo, MendozaFrom 54 year
old vines, this spends 14 months in French oak. Concentrated, firm and tannic
with nice ripe fruit allied with the structure. There’s a bold, savoury edge to
the sweet dark fruits. 91/100
Bodega del Fin del Mundo Malbec Reserva 2004 Neuquén,
PatagoniaInteresting stuff. Savoury, spicy nose leads to a palate with
dense spicy fruit and oak. Lots of presence here: a nice wine. 91/100
Filipe Rutini Malbec 2005 La Consulta, MendozaLovely fruit
here: juicy, vivid, bold fruit with nice weight and spice. Delicious.
91/100
90Pulenta Estate Malbec 2004 Alto Agrelo, MendozaDense,
spicy and extracted with nice freshness and some class. Bold stuff. Delicious
with lots of presence. 90/100
Finca el Retiro Malbec 2004 MendozaVivid purple colour.
Aromatic spicy nose leads to a high-acid palate with good structure. Vivid and
full. Long lived? 90/100
89
Eral Bravo Malbec 2005 Agrelo, MendozaRich, extracted style with concentrated, dense, ripe spicy fruit. Some oak is evident, but its nicely done in an unashamed new world style. 89/100
Eral Bravo Malbec 2005 Agrelo, MendozaRich, extracted style with concentrated, dense, ripe spicy fruit. Some oak is evident, but its nicely done in an unashamed new world style. 89/100
Trivento Golden Reserva Malbec 2004 Vistalba, MendozaBig,
dense, ripe and extracted with lots of spicy, oaky fruit. In yer face.
89/100
Familia Zuccardi Q Malbec 2003 Maipú, MendozaQuite
structured and spicy with some oak influence. Quite refined in a full flavoured
style. 89/100
Finca Las Moras Mora Negra 2004 Tulum Valley, San JuanDeep
coloured with vivid fruit. Ripe but with a savoury, spicy edge. Bold but
balanced. 89/100
Trapiche Tributo Felipe Villafañe Malbec 2003 La Consulta,
MalbecSmooth, sweet pure fruit but lots of vanilla oak on the nose.
Vivid, bold, oaky palate. 89/100
Valentin Bianchi Particular 2004 MendozaRipe, rich, spicy
and chunky, with good weight. A nice rich style. 89/100
Luna Llena Malbec 2004 MendozaVery sweet, soft fruit here.
Open and rounded. A striking, distinctive wine. 89/100
88
Bodega NQN Malma Reserve Malbec 2004 Neuquén, PatagoniaA
very rich, full wine with sweet fruit and nice supporting oak. Substantial
stuff. 88/100
Terrazas Reserva Malbec 2004 Vistalba, MendozaSweet,
liqueur-like fruit on the nose. Some oak influence on the palate. Modern styled.
88/100
87 Viña Fundación de Mendoza Malbec 2006 Santa Rosa,
MendozaQuite vivid and spicy on the nose. The palate has savoury, spicy
structure and good fruit. Good concentration. 87/100
Michel Torino Don David Reserve Malbec 2004 Cafayete,
SaltaJuicy, bold and rich with good acid and structure, and pure dark
fruits. Lovely. 87/100
San Polo Auka Malbec 2003 La Consulta, MalbecNice full and
dense with spiciness and freshness. Tasty. 87/100
Norton Malbec Reserva 2004 Lunlunta, MendozaJuicy, ripe
easy drinker with red fruits and a touch of spice. 87/100
86 Navarro Correas Colección Privada Malbec 2005 MendozaVivid
and intense, with lots of fruit. Good acid. Tasty. 86/100
86
RJ Viñedos Jaffe e Hijas Grand Malbec 2004 Valle d’Uco,
MendozaFresh, quite perfumed nose is spicy and full. The palate is dense
and full with nice spicy structure. Vivid stuff. 86/100
85 Bodega Felix Lavaque, Finca El Recreo Quara Barrique Aged Malbec
2004 Cafayate, SaltaVivid and juicy with nice freshness from the high
acidity. Tasty 85/100
Viento Sur Malbec 2005 Tupungato, MendozaQuite aromatic
and full with sweet red fruits. The palate is bold and juicy with nice fresh
herby fruit. There’s a herbal edge. 85/100
Finca Flichman Reserva Malbec 2005 Tupungato,
MendozaSweet, spicy, slightly tarry edge. Nice dark fruits. 85/100
Alta Vista Premium Malbec 2004 Luján de Cuyo, MendozaNice
weight and density here. Rich, modern and spicy. Slightly oaky style.
85/100
84
Telteca Antá Malbec 2004, Lavalle, MendozaJuicy and rich
with ripe fruit. Very drinkable. 84/10
Mendoza Vineyards Malbec 2005 Mendoza96% Malbec, 4%
Viognier, some staves used. Juicy, fruity, fun and quite nice. 84/100
Graffigna Centenario Malbec 2004 Pedernal, San JuanBold,
rich and quite oaky with lots of presence.
Argento Malbec 2005 MendozaNice bright juicy fruit with no
rough edges. An easy drinker. 84/100
Chakana Malbec Reserva 2005 Agrelo, MendozaVivid, toasty,
chocolatey nose. Lots of ripe fruit. Quite oaky, but good fruit. 84/100
Trapiche Broquel Malbec 2004 MendozaChocolatey, spicy,
oaky nose. Dense, spicy, oaky palate. Good in its style. 84/100
83 Etchart Gran Reserva Malbec/Cabernet Sauvignon 2003 Cafayate,
Saltra50% Malbec, with 30% Cabernet and the balance Merlot and Tannat.
Sweet, ripe and approachable. Nice. 83/100
83
Tamari Malbec Reserva 2005 MendozaVivid and juicy with
high acidity and ripe fruit. 83/100
San Huberto Malbec Crianza 2004 La RiojaSpicy and quite
structured with good acidity. A fresh, drinkable style. 83/100
Don Christobal Oak Reserva Malbec 2004 MendozaQuite a big
oaky style with sweet fruit. 83/100
La Riojano Coop Raza
Limited Edition Malbec 2003 La RiojaVery fresh and juicy with nice
acidity and some plummy bitterness. 83/100
Doña Paula Estate Malbec 2005 Luján de Coyo, MendozaFresh
and vivid with high acidity. Juicy and full. 83/100
82Jean Bousquet Malbec 2005 Tupungato, MendozaOpen, sweet
spicy fruit. Quite distinctive with an slightly oxidative note. Approachable.
82/100
Santa Ana Malbec Reserve 2004 Cruz de Piedra,
MendozaJuicy, fresh and fruity with a bit of spice. 82/100